An SSD is a printed circuit board with a handful of chips on it. The chips are soldered down with hundreds of tiny balls each and are the last thing to give way. What breaks is the board around them: the edge connector on an M.2 stick, which is thin and takes the whole bending load; the copper traces, which crack when the board flexes; the small regulators and capacitors, which burn when something shorts; and on portables, the USB-C socket, which is held on by solder alone and torn off by a cable pulled sideways.
Bench repair means putting the board back together well enough to run once. A snapped connector is rebuilt with fine wire to the traces behind it. A cracked trace is bridged. A burnt regulator is replaced with its equivalent. The drive is then imaged in one careful pass, because a repaired board is a board to read once, not to use again.
Where the board is beyond that, the flash chips can be lifted and read directly, with the controller's layout undone in software, on drives that do not encrypt in hardware. On hardware-encrypted drives, Samsung, WD, SK hynix and Apple among them, the original controller has to be moved with the flash to a donor board and revived there, which is possible more often than not. The one thing that makes any of this harder is an attempt to fix it at home: heat from a soldering iron in the wrong place, glue in the connector, a board bent back straight and cracked twice.